Recreational uses of cliff resources in the New River Gorge National River (NERI)

OMB Control Number 1024-0224
Expiration Date: 6/31/2011

[Climbing Survey]

New River Gorge National River

A survey of visitors:
Your opinion matters!
Conducted by:
Dr. Dave Smaldone
Recreation, Parks & Tourism Program
Division of Forestry & Natural Resources
West Virginia University
In cooperation with the New River Gorge National River
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Survey Directions:
Thank you for taking the time to complete this survey. The results of this study will
help resource managers better understand visitors like yourself, as well as develop education
and interpretive programs for park visitors. This survey is only being given to a select
number of visitors, so your participation is very important. Your participation is voluntary,
and your responses will be kept confidential and anonymous. This survey should take about
20 minutes of your time. Please read the instructions for each question and answer to the
best of your ability.
First, we would like to find out a little about your current visit to the New River Gorge
National River.
Topic Area 2 – Trip/Visit Characteristics (Questions 1-2)
1. Is this your first climbing trip to the New River Gorge (NRG)? (please check one)
† Yes
† No
2. How long is your current climbing trip? (please check one, and write in number)

† Less than one day. Æ If so, how many hours? _____________
† More than a day. Æ If so, how many days? ________________
Topic Area 3 – Individual Activities and Uses of Park Resources
3. What activities are you doing today while on the trail? (check all that apply)
† hiking/walking
† bird watching
† viewing wildlife (other than birds)
† visiting historic sites
† other: _________________

† rock climbing
† photography
† viewing the scenery
† picnicking

ÆNow, from the activities that you checked above, please write in the one that was
most important to you: ______________________
Topic Area 2 – Trip/Visit Characteristics
4. How many routes did you climb on this trip in the NRG? (please write in number) ______

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Topic Area 5 – Individual Perceptions of their Park Experiences – variation (Questions 5-8)
5. How did the number of people you saw during your visit compare with what you expected?
(please check one)

†  A lot less than what you expected
†  A little less than what you expected
†  About what you expected
† A little more that what you expected
†  A lot more than what you expected
† You did not have any expectations
6. How crowded did you feel on your visit to the New River Gorge today? (circle one number)
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
______________________________________________________________________________________
Not Crowded at all

Slightly Crowded

Moderately Crowded

Extremely Crowded

7. Did you move to a different crag today because of the number of people you encountered?
(please check one)

† Yes

† No

8. Would you consider climbing at a different crag based on the number of people you
encountered? (please circle one response)
Not at all

1

Very Much

2

3

4

5

6

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Topic Area 6 – Individual Evaluation of Park Services (Questions 9 and 10)
9. How important to you are the following features at NRG climbing areas? (please circle one
response for each question)
Not important

Restrooms at trailheads……………………1
Parking Areas………………...……………1
Signage at Trail Access Points ……….. ….1
Trail Quality……………………………… 1
Visitor Center……………………………...1
Ranger presence on trails.………………….1
Suitable campsites in park. ………………..1

3

2
2
2
2
2
2
2

Very Important

3
3
3
3
3
3
3

4
4
4
4
4
4
4

5
5
5
5
5
5
5

6
6
6
6
6
6
6

7
7
7
7
7
7
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10 How would you rate your satisfaction with the quality of these features at NRG climbing
areas? (circle one response for each question)
Very
Dissatisfied

Restrooms at trailheads…………………….1
Parking Areas………………...…………… 1
Signage at Trail Access Points……………..1
Trail Quality………………………………..1
Visitor Center………………………………1
Ranger presence on trails. …………………1
Suitable campsites in park. ………………..1

Neutral

2
2
2
2
2
2
2

3
3
3
3
3
3
3

4
4
4
4
4
4
4

Very
Satisfied

5
5
5
5
5
5
5

6
6
6
6
6
6
6

7
7
7
7
7
7
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Now, we’d like you to tell us about your climbing background.
Topic Area 1 – Individual Characteristics (Questions 11-23)
11. How many years have you been climbing? (write in number) _______
12. How many years have you been climbing at the New River Gorge? (write in number)
_________
13. When was your first visit to New River Gorge? (write in the month and year)
Month: _________________ Year: ________ † Don’t know/can’t remember
14. Approximately how many days a year do you climb outside? (please check one)
† <10 days/year
† 11-20 days/year
† 21-30 days/year

† 31-40 days/year
† 41-50 days/year
† >50 days/year

15. Approximately how many days a year do you climb at the New River Gorge?
† <10 days/year
† 11-20 days/year
† 21-30 days/year

† 31-40 days/year
† 41-50 days/year
† >50 days/year

16. Approximately how many days a year do you climb indoors in a gym?
† <10 days/year
† 31-40 days/year
† 11-20 days/year
† 41-50 days/year
† 21-30 days/year
† >50 days/year
17. What category best describes your overall ability as a climber? (check one)
† Novice
† Intermediate
† Advanced
† Expert
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18. What is the hardest grade climb you have ever climbed in the NRG for each type of
climbing below? (please write in grade number or check box)
Top roping: ________
Trad: _____________
Sport: _____________

† I do not Top Rope † Don’t know
† I do not Trad climb
† Don’t know
† I do not Sport climb
† Don’t know

19. What type of climbing did you do on this trip? (check all that apply)

† Top roping
† Sport climbing
† Traditional climbing

† Bouldering
† Other _____________________

20. What type of climber are you predominately? (check one)
† Top roper
† Gym climber (indoors)
† Traditional
† Both sport & traditional equally
† Sport (outdoors) † Boulderer
† Other:_______________________________
21. Where did you learn to climb? (check one)

† Mostly inside at a rock gym
† Pretty evenly split, both inside at a gym, as well as outside
† Mostly outside
22. Who taught you to climb? (check all that apply)

† Family members (informally)
† Friends (informally)
† Climbing club (informally)
† Took a course from University/College (formal instruction)
† Took a course from outfitter/guide (formal instruction)
† Other: __________________________
22a. If you selected more than one option above, which one has had the most influence
on your climbing knowledge and practices? (please write in your answer)
______________________________________________________
23. Where do you most prefer to climb? (check one)

† Gyms
† Front country (road-side crags, easy/short approaches)
† Back country (i.e. remote areas, long approaches)

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Topic Area 2 – Trip Planning (Questions 24 and 25)
24. From your home, how many hours did you travel to reach the New River Gorge? (please
check one box)

† Less than 1

† 1 to 2

† 3 to 4

† 5 to 6 † 7 to 8

† more than 8

25. Please indicate which climbing areas you typically use at the NRG: (check all that apply)

†
†
†
†

Bridge Buttress
† Bubba City
Endless Wall
† Beauty Mtn.
Junkyard Wall
† Fern Creek
Don’t Know Name of Site/Crag

† Kaymoor
† South Nuttall

26. What would you be most interested in learning about, in regards to the cliffs and their
ecosystems at the NRG? (please write in your answer)
____________________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________
Topic Area 6 – Preferences, Motives and Attitudes - variation (Questions 27-31)

The following questions deal with the cliffs at the NRG and your opinion of their
importance. Please place a check under the column that best describes how strongly you
agree or disagree with each of the following statements. (check one box for each question)

27.

Strongly
Disagree

a. The cliffs in the NRG are the same

as cliffs anywhere else.
b. Cliffs are a fundamental resource to

the NRG National River, and
essential to its national significance.
c. The cliffs in the NRG provide
habitat for rare plants.
d. The cliffs in the NRG provide
habitat for rare animals.
e. The cliffs in the NRG support
unique habitats and ecosystems.
f. The views of natural landscape
from the cliffs in the NRG are
worth protecting from human
development.
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Disagree

Neutral

Agree

Strongly
agree

Don’t
know

g. The views from the cliffs in the

NRG are one of the Park’s most
important and unique resources.

This next section has questions about your behaviors and opinions regarding climbing
practices. Please place a check under the column that best describes how strongly you
agree or disagree with each of the following statements. (check one box for each question)

Definitions:
*Fixed Anchor: Presence of fixed bolts/webbing/pitons on cliff, used for anchor/rappel stations.
*Bolts: Permanent bolts used on sport routes, and as anchor points.

28.

Strongly
Disagree

a. I always pack out my trash.
b. I always use official access trails.
c. I respect revegetation efforts.
d. I avoid trails that have been closed.
e. I practice Leave No Trace when I
climb.
f. Fixed anchors (permanent) should be
used to help preserve the environment.
g. I comply with local climbing
regulations.
h. I try to keep my noise level down.
i. Old gear should be removed from
belay and rappel sites.
j. Permanent anchors provide easy access
to routes.
k. I park my vehicle in designated areas.
l. I always consider the local area ethics
when I climb.
m. Permanent bolted anchors should be
used at the top of climbs.
n. It is OK to remove/clean lichens.
o. It is OK to remove/clean mosses and
other vegetation.
p. Chiseling holds is an acceptable
practice.
q. It is OK to secure top ropes to trees.
r. Permanent anchors increase the use of
routes too much.
s. Soils & plants along the Park trails are
hardy and not easily damaged.
t. I respect seasonal closures at certain

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Disagree

Neutral

Agree

Strongly
agree

Don’t
know

crags for wildlife needs.
u. The park provides clear indications
about which trails should not be used.
v. Compared to other people I saw on
this visit, I am causing less damage to
the soils & vegetation.
w. Permanent anchors are not needed.
x. I feel a responsibility to help protect
the plants and ecosystems in the Park.
y. The continued use of unofficial visitor
created trails is a serious threat to
plants and soils along the Park trails.
z. It is OK to walk off the official trails,
if I stay on unofficial trails already
created by visitors.

The next section deals with potential resource impacts at climbing areas in the New River
Gorge, and if you perceive them to be a problem. Please place a check under the column
that best describes to what extent each of the following is a problem for you when
climbing at the New River Gorge. (check one box for each question)

29.

Not a
problem

Minor
problem

Neutral

Moderate
problem

Serious
problem

a. Bare soil at the top or base of
cliffs.
b. Trampled vegetation at the top
or base of the cliff.
c. Dead or damaged trees at the top
or base of the cliff due to use as
an anchor, or rappel site.
d. Erosion at/near the cliffs due to
multiple trails.
e. Vegetation damaged or being
removed from cliff face.
f. Pieces of litter/trash at the cliff.
g. Human waste visible along cliff
lines or trails.
h. Chalk tick marks on routes.
i. Vandalism at NRG.
j. People that do not control their
dogs adequately.

This series of questions ask you to think about your opinions about management
preferences, as well as how climbing is currently managed at the New River Gorge.
Please place a check under the column that best describes how strongly you agree or
disagree with each of the following statements. (check one box for each question)
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Don’t
know

30.

Strongly
disagree

a. The impact of bolts & anchors on the
natural resource is minimal.
b. There should be official regulations
concerning where, when, and how bolts
and fixed anchors should be used.
c. The presence of numerous bolts &
anchors negatively affects my climbing
experience.
d. The National Park Service managers at
the NRG share my values.
e. All climbing guide services should be
required to be certified or accredited.
f. I am familiar with the climbing
regulations at the NRG.
g. Climbing is not treated fairly in the
management process when compared to
other recreation activities at the NRG.
h. Climbing group sizes should be limited
at NRG.
i. Other recreational groups are not
offended by seeing climbing bolts or
anchors.
j. I trust that the National Park Service
managers at the NRG will do what is
right for the Park.
k. Climbers need to be educated
concerning their role in the management
process.
l. Large groups of climbers detracted from
my experience at NRG.
m. Most climbing areas need an official
management plan in order to provide
sustained use.
n. The National Park Service managers at
the NRG have the same goals as me.
o. Park managers do not have adequate
knowledge of climbing to properly
manage it at the NRG.
p. Climber’s practice of land stewardship
is not adequate.
q. Poor communication of rules &
regulations is a problem at NRG.
r. Climbers have a negative attitude
toward management at the NRG.

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Disagree

Neutral

Agree

Strongly
Agree

Don’t
know

31. These questions ask you to indicate how important the NRG is you. Please indicate to
what extent you agree or disagree with the following statements about the New River Gorge
area. (Please check one box for each question)
Strongly
Disagree

Disagree

Neutral

Agree

Strongly
agree

Don’t
know

a. This place means a lot to me.
b. I feel like this place is a part of me.
c. I feel no commitment to this place.
d. I get more satisfaction out of climbing
at the New River Gorge than anywhere
else.
e. The New River Gorge is the best place
for doing the kind of climbing I do.
f. There is NO substitute for the type and
quality of climbing at the New River
Gorge.

Topic Area 2 – Trip Planning
32. How do you usually obtain information about climbing in the NRG? (check all
sources that you have used)
† Local guidebook
† Climbing websites
† Friends/word of mouth
† Through personal exploration & discovery
† Outdoor/climbing stores around the NRG
† National Park Service information (website, brochure, etc.)
† Other: ____________________________

Topic Area 1 – Individual Characteristics
33. Have you ever taken a course on, or been trained in, Leave No Trace (LNT) climbing
practices? (check one)

† Yes

† No

Topic Area 3 – Trip Behavior
34. Did you encounter any National Park Service rangers on the trails today?

† Yes

† No
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Topic Area 6: Trust in the NPS (variation)
35. How much do you trust or distrust the following as a source of information about climbing
management? (please place a check in the appropriate box)
Strongly
distrust

Somewhat
distrust

Somewhat
trust

Strongly
trust

Family & friends
Environmental organizations
Businesses (i.e., outdoor or climbing related)
Climbing related organizations (Access
Fund, etc.)
Scientists in general
National Park rangers in general
National Park rangers at the New River
Gorge National River
Mainstream news media
Of the sources listed above, which do you most strongly trust, and WHY?
List source: ______________
Why trust?: _____________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

Of the sources listed above, which do you most strongly distrust, and WHY?
List source: ______________
Why distrust?: __________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

Topic Area 1 – Individual Characteristics
36. Do you currently belong to any of the following organizations affiliated with rock
climbing or the environment? (check all that apply)

† Access Fund
† Alpine Club of Canada
† New River Alliance of Climbers
† Leave No Trace
† American Alpine Club
† Nature Conservancy
† American Mountain Guides Association † Sierra Club
† American Sport Climbing Federation
† Wilderness Society
† Appalachian Mountain Club
† Other (please write in _________________________________________)
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Topic Area 6 – Evaluation of Services and Management (Questions 37-40).
37. Did you know that volunteer climbers undertake maintenance projects at NRG?
(check one)

† Yes

† No

38. Have you ever volunteered for a climbing area maintenance project at NRG (trail
construction, trash clean up, etc.)? (check one)

† Yes

† No

39. Have you ever volunteered for climbing area maintenance project anywhere else (trail
construction, trash clean up, etc.)? (check one)

† Yes

† No

40. Do you think rock climbers should share responsibility for climbing area maintenance?
(check one)

† Yes

† No

Finally, we would like to know a bit more about you.
Topic Area 1 – Individual Characteristics (Questions 41-49)
41. What is your gender? (check one)

† Male

† Female

42. What is the highest grade of school or year of college that you completed? (check one)
† Four year college degree
† Masters, doctoral, or professional degree

† Less than high school
† High school graduate or GED
† Some college or associate degree
43. Are you Hispanic or Latino? (check one)
† Yes
† No

44. Which racial groups do you identify with? (check one or more)

† American Indian or Alaska Native
† Asian
† Black or African American
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† Native Hawaiian or other Pacific Islander
† White
45. What is your age? (please write in number) ________
46. Are you a permanent resident or citizen of the U.S.? (check one and fill in)

† No ― What is your country of origin? ______________________________
† Yes ― What is your zip code, city and state of residence?
Zip Code _____________________________
City _________________________________
State _______________________________
47. How many people (including yourself) are in your party on this visit?
(write in number) _____
44a. Which of the following best describes the group you are traveling with? (check one)
† Myself (alone)
† Myself with family (including spouse/partner and/or other family
members/relatives)
† Myself with family and friends
† Myself with friends
† Outfitter guided
Specify_________________________________
† Club/organization/school
Specify_________________________________
† Other (Please specify) ___________________________________________
48. Do you consider yourself to be a leader or organizer for your group?
† Yes
† No

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49. Are there any children under age 18 in your group? (check one & write in number as
needed)

† No
† Yes Æ How many children are in each of these age categories?
______ Number of children under 5 years old.
______ Number of children age 5-12
______ Number of children age 13-17

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